Tips for Getting the Best Solar Quotes

9 steps to getting the best solar panel quote

Before getting a solar quote, the most important thing is to do your research. Being prepared can keep you from being pulled into a scam or signing up with the wrong solar company. Below are our top tips for getting the best solar quote for your home.

1. Determine your home’s energy needs

Knowing how much electricity your home actually uses ensures you’re comparing properly sized systems — not too small (which won’t offset enough of your bill) or too large (which may not be allowed by your utility).

Start by finding your annual energy usage in kilowatt-hours (kWh). The easiest way to do this is by reviewing the last 12 months of your utility bills. Look for your monthly kWh usage and add it up, or check if your utility provides a yearly total on your account dashboard.

Next, estimate the system size you’ll need. A common formula is:

Annual kWh usage / local production factor = system size (kW)

The production factor varies by location and reflects how much electricity a 1-kW system produces in your area each year. For example, if your home uses 12,000 kWh annually and your area’s production factor is 1,200, you’d need about a 10-kW system. You can usually find your area’s production factor using online solar calculators, like the National Renewable Energy Laboratory’s (NREL) PVWatts tool.

» CALCULATE: How many kWh does a solar panel produce?

2. Understand solar terminology

During your quote, a solar rep may use technical terminology you don’t understand. Here are a few key concepts to know to avoid confusion.

Polycrystalline vs. monocrystalline

Most residential systems use monocrystalline or polycrystalline panels. Monocrystalline panels are more efficient and take up less space, but they usually cost more. Polycrystalline panels are more affordable but slightly less efficient, so they may require more roof space. You may also see thin-film panels, though these are less common for homes due to lower efficiency.

Inverters

Solar panels produce direct current (DC) electricity, which must be converted into usable alternating current (AC) by an inverter. There are a few types to know:

• String inverters are the most common and cost-effective but can lose efficiency if part of your system is shaded.
• Microinverters are installed on each panel, allowing them to perform independently and improving output in shaded conditions.
• Power optimizers offer a middle ground, helping each panel perform better while still using a central inverter.

Battery storage

If you’re considering solar batteries, you’ll likely come across lithium-ion and lead-acid options. Lithium-ion batteries are more common today because they last longer, store more energy and require less maintenance. Lead-acid batteries cost less upfront but have a shorter lifespan and lower usable capacity, making them less practical for most homeowners.

Key pricing and performance terms

Price per watt often decreases as system size increases. For example, a smaller 6-kW system may have a higher cost per watt than a larger 10-kW system.

You’ll also see terms like price per watt, which helps you compare quotes across installers, and efficiency, which measures how well panels convert sunlight into electricity. Net metering refers to earning credits for excess energy sent back to the grid, and a production estimate is the installer’s projection of how much energy your system will generate based on your home and location.

3. Have an idea of average solar costs

Now that you’ve learned the jargon, research how much solar costs on average in your area. To estimate what going solar might cost for you, you can again use NREL’s PVWatts tool, which shows average price-per-watt ranges based on your location.

Sales reps often significantly mark up the price per watt to improve their commission, according to Neil Gallagher of BrighterWay Solar, a solar construction and contracting firm, so it’s important to know what the normal price range is before you get a quote.

On average nationwide, going solar costs from $12,600 to around $33,375, with an average of roughly $19,875. The average price per watt is around $3 to $5. However, your actual cost will depend on factors like system size, equipment quality, labor rates in your area and available incentives or tax credits.

» MORE: How much do solar panels cost?

4. Research all available solar incentives

Find out which solar incentives are still available before getting quotes. The federal solar investment tax credit (ITC), which once reduced installation costs, is no longer available for new residential systems, so savings now depend more on state and local programs.

Start by checking for rebates, tax credits or performance-based incentives like Solar Renewable Energy Certificates (SRECs) in your area. A reliable resource is DSIRE (Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency), which lists current programs by location.

Net cost vs. gross cost

When reviewing quotes, look closely at how incentives are applied. Some installers advertise a low “net cost” based on estimated savings that may not apply to you. Always ask for the gross cost and a clear breakdown of any incentives so you can accurately compare offers.

5. Consider adding a solar battery

During an electricity outage, grid-tied solar panels are shut off to prevent shocks to those fixing the electric lines. If you’re getting solar to avoid power outages, staying off the grid and purchasing a solar battery is key to preventing a loss of power.

“Just because you have solar panels doesn't mean you have solar power. This isn’t commonly known and is often dodged during sales calls because it's a consumer misconception,” said solar expert Linh Tran of FranklinWH.

On the other hand, if you’re planning on net metering and want to stay at least partially on the grid, a battery is optional.

6. Assess your roof

Your roof’s condition and orientation are key factors in your solar system’s design and cost.

Before installation, your provider will confirm your roof can support panels and has enough life left. “It should have a minimum of 10 years of life left if going solar,” said Gallagher of BrighterWay Solar. If your roof needs replacement soon, it’s usually better to do that first, since removing and reinstalling panels later can add thousands to the total cost.

You’ll also need enough usable space to fit your system. Roof material can affect installation costs as well: Asphalt shingles are typically the easiest to work with, while tile or slate roofs may increase labor time and expense.

Finally, consider shading and restrictions. Trees, nearby buildings or roof obstructions can reduce energy production, and HOA rules or local regulations may limit where panels can be placed.

7. Go with trusted brands

To get the most value for your money, you want a brand with quality equipment that works with trusted installers. It’s key to research brands before even asking for a quote. We’ve rounded up the top solar brands to get you started.

Also, be sure to read reviews from each company’s customers while making your assessment.

For example, Michael, a ConsumerAffairs reviewer from California, had this to say: “I have been researching solar for several years. I received a random email from SunPower and decided to look into them. They ended up providing the best customer service, the best follow up, the best warranty and best overall quality. … They weren’t the cheapest, but all providers I received quotes from were very similar.”

8. Know your financing options

Paying cash upfront typically provides the best return on investment (ROI), since you own the system outright and avoid interest, fees and ongoing payments. You also benefit directly from any long-term energy savings. However, if paying cash isn’t an option, financing can make solar accessible.

• Solar loan: With a solar loan, you borrow money to purchase the system and own it once it’s paid off. When comparing loans, look closely at the annual percentage rate (APR) and any dealer fees, which can significantly increase your total cost even if monthly payments seem low.
• Solar lease: A solar lease requires little to no upfront cost. With a lease, you pay a fixed monthly fee to use the equipment.
• Power purchase agreement (PPA): With a PPA, you pay for the electricity the system produces, usually at a set rate per kilowatt-hour. Many PPAs include escalator clauses, meaning your rate increases over time, which can reduce long-term savings.

When comparing options, be careful not to mix pricing structures. Cash purchases and loans are typically quoted in price per watt ($/W), while PPAs are priced per kilowatt-hour ($/kWh). These aren’t directly comparable, so focus instead on total cost, monthly payments and projected savings over time.

» MORE: Solar lease vs. solar PPA

9. Ask what’s included in your quote

Gallagher told us that it’s important to get more than one quote to get the best deal, but don’t just go with the cheapest company. Make sure you know what a quote includes, and be sure to get it in writing.

Here are some things to check for:

• How long is the warranty? Typically, companies offer warranties that last around 20 to 25 years.
• Is installation included, or is the quote just for equipment? Residential solar panel installations are often best left to professionals, so don’t gloss over this detail.
• Does the company cover inspection and permit costs? One of the reasons many people prefer professional installation is that solar installers know how to navigate your local permit process, which can be daunting to DIYers.
• What are the upfront costs (if any)? If there are monthly fees or payments, how much will they cost? Knowing how you’re expected to pay for your solar panels can make a significant difference to your finances.

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