Nissan Xterra Reviews

I would love to find a newer 4WD Xterra with low miles on it. The main thing I like is the fact there isn't a bunch of stuff that I don't need that will go bad. It is my daily driver. I am nervous about buying another car because I know how I have maintained this one. I plan to keep it running as long as I can. I hate having a car payment. I wish they still made them. I would love to see a new generation.

Amy

Beware of those pedalling brand myths. Those days are gone. No one carmaker is a safe haven any longer. All have made some real stinkers, some more so than others, but there was a time when cars were a lot less complex, when parts were not made in China, Malaysia, Vietnam or some other third world factory paying starvation wages in a corporate race to the bottom.

Over the last 45 years I’ve owned most true 4x4 brands available in North America (and a few Japanese RHDs) and I continue to use the Nissan Xterra. I’ve owned four Xterras since 2007 and currently run two 2nd Generation models; a 2008 ‘X’ automatic transmission and a 2013 Pro4x 6 speed standard, both kitted out for 4-6 month overlanding trips. They must hold and do everything a tiny, mobile cabin can plus move my wife and I across distant rough country. I trust my Xterra knowledge and have driven them through the -40F wind and snow of Arctic Canada to the +95F jungle and mud of Belize. They have proved worthy of sinking that kind of money into because the VQ40DE (4.0 L) engine and the RE5RO5A automatic (and standard transmission) are sturdy and reliable.

Numerous other parts are also durable and if they need replacing, many are shared among Nissan’s Frontier and Pathfinder models of which many are still on the road (and salvage yards) from Tuktoyaktuk to Timbuktu. Parts and after-market upgrades have never been a problem for me and are unlikely to be for years to come. How to buy a used one? For starters never buy an Xterra that’s:

1. promoted as being “excellent, fantastic, great” -- if the seller mumbles (usually under questioning) “that it occasionally shakes (shimmies, stutters or hesitates) during driving” and “that it only does it when the transmission gets hot” or “only after driving it awhile in hot weather (or on the highway, up hills, downhills, etc.)” Variations on this theme are many but DO NOT be fooled. This describes the death knell of Nissan’s RE5RO5A automatic transmission and NO, it can’t be salvaged with one or ten transmission flushes and a new filter. And NO, there are no ‘special additives from Lucas, STP, Draino or Tidy Bowl that can save it either. No matter what ‘they say’, it’s done, cooked, finito, Benito. Any owner or prospective buyer disregarding this advice is fooling themselves as it’s only a matter of weeks before you’ll be facing the decision to ‘invest’ a further $4000-$8000 in that Xterra for a rebuilt, reconditioned or new automatic transmission.

2. advertised as ”...recently had all its fluids changed” -- especially the transmission fluid and antifreeze! These two fluids are the ‘smoking guns’ of a tranny dying from Nissan’s notorious ‘shared radiator, and though Nissan isn’t the only carmaker to use a system where transmission fluid and engine coolant run through a twin walled heat exchanger, Nissan was unlucky or stupid enough to take irresponsible, penny-pinching engineering to such a high level. As an investigator (and that’s how you should approach buying a used car), you want that stuff left alone as it is the best way to discover if the Xterra you are considering is afflicted with SMOD (Google ‘Strawberry Milkshake of Death’).

3. exhibits a whistling, rasping sound upon start-up or on accelerating (especially when the motor is cold) very likely has a dying timing chain. This is not a cheap fix but an essential one on all vehicles with high mileage. Especially if you intend to keep healthy for very long. 2005, 2006, 2007 and a mixed bag of 2008 Xterras were afflicted by bad chains. Google will explain why that happened but because the Nissan V6 is an ‘interference-type engine’ (most newer engines are no matter who makes them) a broken timing chain will instantly destroy the engine’s cylinder heads (if you’re lucky) and a whole lot more (if you are not lucky). If you hear rattling and rasping get it replaced. Do it NOW. Or park it till you can afford the fix. The 4.0L Nissan V6 is a great motor once those with poorly made timing chains are sorted out and it can take you to 350,000-450,000 kilometers if you do regular fluid changes and the periodic maintenance shown in the Owners Manual. READ IT. Use fully synthetic API SN+ rated oil of 0w-30 rather than the old SM rated 5w-30 conventional oil in the manual. Lubrication has come a long way since 2005. Whatever you decide, always have a first rate 4x4 mechanic check it out before you put down cash. It's worth the little extra even if you walk away.

Off the subject a little, a Suzuki Grand Vitara is the closest thing to an affordable, bullet-proof, used SUV with real 4x4 capability for offroad and backroad travels you can find. I especially prefer the gutsy little 4 cylinder or the 3.2L V6 -- avoid the GM 3.5L V6 installed in some later models. Suzuki still builds them in Japan and markets them almost everywhere but North America. They are loved for their reliability and their freedom from costly repair. Too bad they are a bit small for our overlanding needs but we love GV for day to day life in the bush.

The other issue is the front wheel bearings. They are $300 a piece for the cheap off brands. $500 a piece for name brand. They are the most expensive bearings I ever had to purchase. Thank goodness I do all my own repairs. Otherwise it would be sitting in my yard dead. It is a love hate relationship with this SUV. It gets around really well but like I said xterra customers should of been compensated for their tranny/radiator screw up. If you buy one make sure it has been bypassed.

If I could offer some advice it would be to research the vehicle on internet forums before buying. With regard to Xterras, perhaps people should stay away from '05 to '08 Xterras unless the owner had recently changed out the radiator and changed the timing chain, guides and tensioners. And if you're going to buy used make sure the vehicle had basic maintenance done to it. I have written records for every fluid change, tire rotation, etc. Apparently, by 2009 Nissan had corrected the radiator and timing chain issues. I'm still on my original timing chain, but I'm always listening for 'whining' noises from the front end that would tell me the chain is about to go.

The key to a long lasting timing chain is regular oil changes, every 5k to 7k miles. I drain/refill my transmission fluid annually as well. My Xterra doesn't leak oil, doesn't use oil and the transmission is as smooth as the day I bought it. The Xterra is a great truck and I hate it that Nissan has failed its customers with not being more forthcoming about known problems.

I got very, very lucky with the leaky radiator problem. The shop identified the oily coolant and knew the transmission fluid mixing had started. They replaced the radiator and cleaned up the system. They also documented their diagnosis so completely that I actually got a check from the class action suit! (In 2018, I had to replace the radiator again. NOT good, Nissan!)

I have stayed in love with the truck. Back in NY, I have over 200K miles on it. Now, however, I have a problem with the belt coming off in the rain. My shop replaced the tensioner with a new device that Nissan made available (but Nissan isn't very upfront about why this is needed) and replaced the rotted-out splash guard. But, rain is still getting in through the hood and making the belt wet enough to slip off when I start the car, on occasion.

I am able to limp the 1 mile to my shop without power steering, they put the belt back on for me every time without a charge, because they're annoyed with themselves that they can't figure out a fix. We haven't replaced, or roughed-up, the belt yet and/or maybe there is misalignment in a pulley that's difficult to detect. I am sad that I can't rely on this car the way I did before. I want to drive back to CA, but I'm afraid to replace this car with a late model Nissan given what I've read. I may have to find a new car to love sooner than I want.

I called the dealership & asked how they know the timing chain needed replacement without taking the engine apart. They said computer diagnostics let them know. I asked if I could just pay for the clutch & drive it off the lot to get a non-dealership opinion. They said not to drive it too far as the clutch isn’t catching till 4500 rpm or so. The other garages told me I may be SOL since anything discovered by computer diagnostics almost always has to go through dealerships anyway. I told the dealership to go ahead & replace the timing chain if they were sure it was the issue. Fast forward three weeks and I got a call with some ‘bad news’. Timing chain was fixed and it’s still not driving well.

Now they think it’s the computer but they’re not sure. So the clutch was bad ($2100) but the computer may have been running the timing chain down prematurely ($3500) & we’re still no closer to having a drivable vehicle. I told them if the timing chain was hosed by a faulty computer then Nissan should cover that too... The rep got really aggressive with me, saying I’m out of warranty & he’s doing me a favor by trying to get Nissan to cover the computer. So to recap: 7 year old truck w/ 40k miles, a fried clutch, a hosed timing belt & a jacked computer. We’re $6k into repairs with no solution in sight. I wish I had never bought this money pit of a lemon.

Surprised and unfortunate so many people have had so much trouble with radiator ruining the transmission. I'm hoping the radiator is not connected to the trans in a manual as it is automatics. The reason I insisted on buying a manual w/ roll up windows, was to avoid costly future repairs... My Dad always said, "the fancier it is, the more expensive it will be to fix!" I am planning on keeping my truck for as long a possible, I'd much rather pay a few thousand to keep this one going than $20-$30k for junk with a bunch of fancy unnecessary gizmos that will cost a fortune to fix WHEN they do go out!

While indeed a clutch is not typically covered under a warranty for this vehicle this should not happen at 36k, driven lightly, not used for towing or off-roading, and associated clearly with another problem (I would not be able to drive the car if the clutch was the only problem). I have driven manuals my whole life and have an Acura TSX with 190k on it with the original clutch and no issues. The lack of understanding and financial help from Nissan Canada cannot let me recommend them to anyone else. The clutch appears to be way under designed for the power and weight of this vehicle. Buyers beware if looking at a used one. Nissan screwed this up big time, and their customer service is poor.

This 4x4 has also a replaced used driveshaft due to the failure of the old one from the factory. This unit now has 170000.0 miles on it and I can't see why it shouldn't make 300000.0. I change the oil every 50000.0 miles with a synthetic. When this motor dues go out, I will have it rebuilt. Remember to use all Nissan parts as well. After market parts will not hold up and will fail and cost you more money in the long run.

Unfortunately I do not have a secondary vehicle and am missing work and I definitely don't have the money to put thousands of dollars into repairing this vehicle. I have never been notified of any recalls on this vehicle as many other Nissan Xterra buyers have not either. Now I am missing work and having to deal with this issue and can result in the possible loss of my job. This dealership never disclosed that this vehicle had so many recalls on major parts of this vehicle... They see $$$ signs first and do not care about the consumer. My advice is Don't buy a 2005 Nissan Xterra and beware of dealers who have no consideration for the consumer.

It was overheating shortly after purchase yet the mech I took it to saw no reason. Replaced radiator cap. Drove it from North Carolina to California. Weather was cool, car continued to overheat but I learned I was able to stop, let it rest, add water. Once I arrived in California I had a first rate mechanic replace just about everything but transmission. He claimed nothing wrong with radiator. But got new fuel pump, water pump, motor mount, gaskets hoses and clamps. Probably a few more parts few months later and thousands of my retirement funds, it ran okay for a while.

I continued my journey to Nevada, December 2014. Going for an interview. As I approach the freeway 397, damned thing blows, smokes up a storms and stalls... (Did this in Cali once also, a neighbor came at me with extinguisher) One hose clamp cost me $140.00. My boyfriend replaced the radiator for me and all was cured. No SES light. No overheat. Perfect running hoopty getting me around. Now the weather changes. One morning the SES light goes on. Turns off as the day warms. A little cooler the next day light comes on and flashes. Light has remained on and will blink at certain RPMs.

Here it is 2016, almost 17, and this SUV is still a money sucking mystery with a flashing SES light (or solid). Nevada dryer, cold weather seems to trigger the knock sensor and that triggers misfire, and this makes the car shake. Oh, and a rattle. I am reading all these complaints and wondering about timing chain, coolant in the tranny, oh my gosh! I cannot put more money in this car. I don't have any. But I can say this, it was fine last week. And it does this off and on. All related to the knock sensor. So I know I will get no answers to my own car's issues. But hopefully this will help another lemon owner's stress, knowing they're not the only. Thank you for your time. P. S. I still believe in Nissan. This is my third but only problem child.

Traded the lemon that was my dream Jeep in for the PRO4X version of the Xterra with leather and navigation. Love it! Put over 30K miles on it in the first year and not a SINGLE problem. Oil changes, wiper blades and software update are it. Goes anywhere we want it to. Soft beach sand, hard packed snow, steep old gravel mining roads are all cake walks. Rear locker works like a charm. Rockford Fosgate sound system is great. I would highly recommend this vehicle to anyone. Has more power than the JK, twice the towing capacity and I can sleep in the back. See the newx.org for detailed write-ups on building your back seat camping bed for two.

I am more familiar with the japanese motors and trannys and have owned a few older 90's Toyotas 4x4 pickups which where great fun and handle great off road. That being said based on the reviews on here I would not buy another xterra unless it is an older one 2000-2003 which seem to be exempt from the problems that I have found on here. The issues with the trans and coolant seem to be a manufacturing or design defect that appears a class action will remedy... it will take time people. Mine a 2001 xterra se has been great to me driven to Wisconsin pulling a boat, pulled 600-700lbs of elm tree in it with my landscape trailer, and it's my daily driver.

The issues on here seem to be year specific 2005 and newer and because of that I will not buy a newer one and appreciate the feedback that helps cement these decisions. The trans issue sounds like a doosey which is suprising because in all honesty the Japanese usually have such better quality because of such strict tolerances on their autos. Sounds like someone at Nissan has dropped the ball considerably to the point that the newer xterras should not be considered for new car buyers. I have owned chevy c-10 pickup, ford f-150 and a few Yota pickups so I have no allegiance to one or the other. The 2001 Xterra I own has been a great, fantastic suv, but other options won't keep me loyal to one or the other.

I took it to my mechanic. They replaced the Radiator and did two transmission flushes at a cost of $1,200. The car was running fine until this morning when I felt two jerks/kicks when coming to a stop. I have put only around 250 miles since the transmission flush. I'll put some Lucas transmission treatment and time will tell. If I have to replace my transmission this will cost me $3,500 to $4,500. Now I have also read regarding the timing chain. Here it goes another $1,500. Not to mention $300 to replace the fuel pump. I found one on Amazon for $150 and the mechanic will only charge me $150 to replace it. I think I'm better off repairing it and keeping it knowing that all the faults have been repaired rather than to sell it and spend 10K or more on another used SUV knowing I will probably have to spend more money on it.

First time ever had this issue since I lived here since 94 but ok. I got some cold rolled steel and 1/8 in. steel flats and started by pulling together and welding cracks then plated and welded supports. Problem solved. It added around 100lbs weight to front but she was a tank at that point and the increased strength per weight amazed others as one night I hit a deer running 70 when seen and after hitting breaks and correcting path to no avail still hit running about 45mph. No air bag deployment found that alarming then I go out to look at damage knowing that it's probably totaled.

Amazingly it ok. Bumper was cracked but plastic what do u expect, headlight blown and lost two KC lights. As far as the hood, fenders, and other body metal items at most small dents. All the welding and reinforcing I applied to support weight of body from tearing itself apart on dirt roads had also absorbed the impact and prevented impact from totaling car. Replaced brakes and wheel bearings and had to replace shocks quickly upgrading them along with steering to hold 32X10.50 R15s for driving through fields, muddling with friends and also for running in winter as we see a lot of ice than snow. My tire/suspension upgrade made gas mileage go down a little but increase in traction and stability made well worth it and made selling car easy.

I purchased a 2000 Nissan Xterra 4WD 3.3L 5 speed last year in May. I have not had many problems out of it although it had 219K. Had to replace fan clutch at end of summer and changed tires. Power steering began leaking so I took fill tank off. Cleaned, flushed, and replaced factory clamps after inspecting. Problem solved. Due to 25 mile commute to work and dirt roads I try to change oil every month at most once every two months and have taken off stock air filtration and equipped it with cold air intake with arrow performance filter wrapped with microbial mesh filter all housed inside plastic cover to protect from damage.

Yesterday I went out to check front bearings as it has been driving weird pulling and vibrating, excessive body roll in turns etc. I noticed that both rims cover in black dust like when you put new breaks on and front-end sitting visually lower. I went to put jack under car to jack up when I noticed that the suspension looked wrong. Its rubber stoppers are one inch from touching. Looks collapsed and across almost like it has a twist when looking at plates covering front axle. Ball joints still attached to upper and lower arms but appears that it has pulled them together. I am about to go and attempt to use cherry picker to support body weight as I jack frame up leaving no pressure on front suspension.

Due to many different designs I have seen so far used for them both with and without 4WD am looking design for mine up by VIN so I can compare and try to find out what happened and replace what's damaged. I do not know exactly what happened or when but know that for a while now front end has been giving me problems with shaking violently including shaking the steering wheel mainly at speeds around 50 to 60 being the worse while not as bad at others. Steering around curves wheel jerked as if losing power from pump wanting to straighten out bouncing hard. Then before this 4WD was not working correctly when engaged felt as if binding up and tires squalled. When I applied clutch it slowed quickly as if you stepped on breaks firmly. I am not sure exactly when this catastrophic failure happened but know it had to have happened or started around Friday evening 1/15/16.

How this did not cause the car to flip or complete loss of steering beyond me. I honestly don't see how the tires haven't folded up or fallen off with condition of roads and violent turns. I am both upset and lost as to what I am going to have to do to fix all this or if it will be even worth it. I am not sure if this was why my steering was shaky and why 4WD started to act up as I had trouble shooted all other issues I could think of and found by other posts in blogs and asking around at shops and auto part stores. No one mentioned to me about this happening anywhere. All ball joints were checked and good rubbers and bushings good connections solid not damaged and lubricated. It has had me completely stumped and now I have this problem.

So hopefully this may help out a fellow Xterra owner having same type problem and has checked everything I have as well multiple times. I did not see this happening as I have spent multiple hours under car checking front end and connections. Yea it is possible I may have missed something that lead to this failure. It is possible but I just don't see how. I will comment when I get car up and looked at to determine whether she is worth fixing or if it will cost too much or if damage is too extreme to be repaired weakening the integrity and safety of car. If someone can offer any help plz let me know.

When I asked the dealership service associates why this would be happening, they could not speculate what might be the reason. I did not have time to wait so I left. I have looked online and MANY people have written about this same issue. Since the local service people do not know what it might be - I would like someone from corporate who may have a greater knowledge of this issue contact me with what it might be. I will then approach the local dealer with possibilities. I do not want to spend a fortune on fixing this issue if they do not know what to look for.

Later on took back to another dealership and they said Nissan wouldn't cover, talk to Nissan north American rep - basically said they wouldn't have a Tulsa dealership cover and if want can see if Missouri dealership would fix, since outside the normal Nissan warranty and that my Nissan extended warranty, which is the premier package bumper to bumper wouldn't cover -- really? Bumper to bumper isn't that with them! - that's why Nissan has 1.3 review scores out of 5 stars -- they don't stand behind their cars/trucks or their warranties.

Now it's July and I find out my radiators leaked into my transmission. Did the bypass but it was too late. Damage is already done so it needs a new transmission. So last night I needed to go to the store, car wouldn't start. I replaced my starter. Still won't start. Now I find out it may be my ipdm which has a recall. But I'm out a car for now. Why didn't Nissan fix the problem that they knew was there before? Or was a recall too much money the company would lose.

This has been a VERY reliable vehicle for me. My only 2 complaints are: 1. The hands-free bluetooth. It sucks. The microphone is mounted against the roof and it picks up all noise from the wind. It is impossible for anyone to hear what you have to say unless you are parked, there is no wind and you speak with your head/mouth pointed right towards the roof. 2. I am extremely careful with any of my vehicles. Even getting in and out and keeping them neat and tidy. The floor mats are of very poor quality. Even under very little stress, you will have to get them replaced after 4 years - they will start to fall apart after that.