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I'm not sure where to start. I got this 2004 Dakota truck financed off a lot, without warranty at 117,000 miles: Worst mistake I've ever made in my life. This all has happened within matter of three years. The first day I got it, the exhaust pipe broke loose. Took it back to the dealer and all the dealer told me to do was to cut it off. I refused to do it, so I just got it repaired at the shop, which cost me 100.00. Body started rusting within a matter of months. The truck later suffered a blown head gasket, which cost me 1,200.00 at the shop. A brief time later, the water pump went out, which I replaced myself for around 60.00. After that, a radiator hose busted; took 20.00 to replace myself. Transmission went out a month or two later, and that cost 800.00 for repair (not a bad price, but costs are accumulating high at this rate). Several months later, tie rods and ball joints needed replaced: shop charged roughly 400.00 to replace.
Brakes went and had to replace those at 40.00. At this time, I've only owned the truck a year or two. Transmission goes back out and costs 1,400.00 to fix. Had to patch a tire shortly after fixing transmission. Several months later, 4×4 control module went out, so I couldn't change from 2×2 to 4x4. Replaced at shop for 80.00. The transmission goes back out for a third time, this time leaving me stranded in the middle of the road. The shop charged over a grand for repair. Door actuator broke, and remains broke to this day, so the driver's side back door won't open. Oh, and did I mention it leaks oil? I'd recommend a bicycle or moped before a Dodge. Do yourself a favor and dodge a Dodge!
Bought 2004 Dakota SXT new June of 2004. It has 178,000.00 miles on it now. Aside of doing the brakes, I've replaced the ball joints, valve cover casket and water pump. This truck runs better than new, I use Mobil One oil since day one and use Marvel Mystery oil in my gas and oil. NO rust at all, I live in CT and they use a lot of salt in the winter so I bring it to the car wash at least 3 times a month in the winter to wash the under carriage. Truck looks new, I get around 21 MPG. Change the oil every 3000 miles and the tranny oil once a year. Powering steering fluid once a year and so on.
Purchased a 2005 quad cab 4wd in 2006 with 7000 miles, $20.000. Under warranty the clutch master cyl. went out, fluid leaking inside cab. Dealer fixed. EGR went out, dealer fixed. Warranty expired, EGR went out again, not repaired. Window reg. broke, dealer replaced. Window regulator broke again, dealer replaced. Driver seat recline handle broke, dealer replaced. 60,993 mi. instrument cluster lights died, had to have cluster replaced, $580.00 later we had dash lights again. Around 60.000 mi. the front stabilizer bar fell off, had both link pins replace with heavy duty pins another $200.00. 77105, tie rod end came apart while driving down mtns. What a thrill!!
Had it taken to a local shop, they also found a wheel bearing was going. Another $827.67. 110.146 upper and lower a arms, both bearings. 111.960 mi. 3 broken exhaust manifold bolts. Taking it apart will have to have heads machined. Spotted coolant leaking, found water pump was leaking. Found main power cable behind eng. insulation disintegrated, will have to repair in order to prevent fire. TELL YOUR FRIENDS NOT TO BUY A DAKOTA!! I CONTACTED DOT TODAY, COMPLAINT FORM IS IN THE MAIL.
When I bought my '97 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 SLT 2WD for $950 3 years ago it had 108k miles (from a small used car dealer). It had been horribly taken care of by the previous owners. It had 20 large dents in the body and box and at least 30+ small dents (no hail damage either). It had just the front suspension modified and lowered. No a/c, heat, blowers, radio. After fixing all that I lifted the suspension 6" and went from 225/75/15 tires to 35 inch tall by 11.5 inch wide. Added offroad light bar over the windshield. Two 6" LED's on the front bumper. Added two 15 lb tow hooks to the front frame. It was flame red, but I plasti-dipped it flat black, and desert tan bumpers and bought and plasti-dipped the camper shell.
I haul cars, and steel building materials (trailer weight about 3k-8k), and do industrial construction in central Oklahoma and south Texas. It hasn't let me down at all. And I live practically in the middle of nowhere on a rough dirt cutout road. It now has 389k miles on it. I've had to replace the tie rod ends, front bearings and hubs, a/c unit, water pump, radio, front shocks. All of the things were replaced due to previous owners not taking care or up keeping the vehicle. In all I love this truck hands down. It's outlasted my buddies multiple full size GMC trucks, and their full size engines. :) Currently looking for a 2nd Gen 4x4 Dodge Dakota/Durango for a trail riding, camp, and summertime lake vehicle.
I bought my 04 Dakota sport quad cab 4.7 V8 with 30k on it. I got home with it and a couple of days later blew front main seal. Warranty covered that. By 60k ball joints were bad and I've replaced front axles twice. Tie rods have been changed. Positive traction has made a grinding sound ever since I got it when I turn onto other streets. I used Lucas and kinda overfilled it and it's quieted it down. 4.7 is very weak and gets terrible mpg's. Changed manifold gaskets twice and it has a tick again. I've since freed it up with performance cats and faster system. Flush the underbody religiously but still have rust holes around wheel wells. No body rust because I've taken very good care of this truck.
Has 138k on it now and front main is starting to leak again. At 50k the transfer case started leaking. It got over tightened and couldn't get the plug out after that. So now I have that to repair. Replaced brakes 6 times on this truck complete. Brakes work good under normal conditions but if I have to stop quick the abs will just click and I'm nowhere near the point of them locking. It's an accident waiting to happen. It's just a shame cause it's a really good looking truck. I thought when I got it that it would be perfect. A midsize with a V8. I figured it would get ok fuel economy and have plenty of power. Should stop well too. It gives me none of those things. The only positives are it looks and sounds good, it's comfortable, and with my mud tires it will go anywhere. Should be a lot of recalls though.
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I purchased new from the dealer a 2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7 V8 Quad Cab. Now in 2015, I still drive the thing with 186,000 miles on it. Yes, there have been the usual repairs and replacements like ball joints, brakes, etc. A lady rear-ended me in 2009 and a body shop replaced the rear bumper. Her little car was basically totaled. I live in NH and rust is always a concern from the salt the snow plows spread on the roads. But the rust on my truck now is quite bad. The rear passenger wheel well is flaking away. And 2 years ago I needed to get some welding down to the frame. The rust is getting so bad under there, it would not pass inspection. I think parts of the frame are hollow and when water gets in there, it can't escape. Overall, I have been happy with this truck, but am sad the rust is going to limit its life.
Tie rod on one side fail off then on the other side the inner and outer tie rod were slipping in and out of one another's stripped threads. The steering got real hard for like a year now it makes a funny noise and is real soft. The bearing is bad. The transmission is grinding when I shift from 2nd to 3 gear. I mean it is a junk truck and all this happens under 90000 miles and the interior is junk, both of my sway bar links are broke.
Well I was doing an oil change on my 2005 Dodge Dakota. And I noticed when I popped the hood that my fan was rubbing against the plastic shroud... so I put my hand on the radiator and it moved! So I took the plastic covers off and noticed the only thing holding my radiator up was the hoses!! My whole support rusted away! Why would Dodge put a cover over the bottom of the radiator?!? It holds the rust and salt in it! Please recall these trucks! They are junk!
I have put 2 power steering pumps in my 2006 Dodge Dakota 3.7 2wd. Going on my third, buying brand new from dealer, re-manufactured pumps are not the way to go, apparently. I have bled the lines, checked the actual PS box for any signs. Nothing has worked. I guess I'll see how the new one goes. And I seen someone saying their Dakota is reving really high? It's your IAC sensor. Take filter off of throttle body, you will see a little slip almost like a smile under the actual butterfly valve, spay B12 or carburetor cleaner inside slip, tap with a hammer to kind of shake it around. Worked like a charm on mine. It was also reving really high right at about 5,500.
I purchased my 2003 dodge in 2006 it had 28000 mi on it. After about a month it started to make a tapping sound the dealer said it was a bad injector. "How much?" He said "$165." I said "do you warranty that? This is the problem then fix it but if it does not fix the problem then I won't pay." Well he didn't fix it. So be it. After I examined it myself and found that it was a cam fowler of lifter. I also took it in for a vibration from the rear suspension.
When I put the back windows down it sounds like a helicopter. They said that they couldn't find anything wrong and could not hear any noise. Well they must be deaf because if you put the windows down it sounds like you are in a helicopter. It's crazy. So I took it to sears. They could at least hear the noise and feel the vibration but didn't know what was wrong. I put new tires and new shocks on it twice. If anybody has any ideas I would appreciate it.
The air bag is off and it dings 36 times before it goes off. Now the motor on the drive side window quit and there are three lights on in the dish.
I have a 2010 Dodge Dakota Big horn. It has been a great truck except for my turn signals. Sometimes they don't work at all and sometimes if you turn on the signal to go right the left one blinks or if you go left the right one blinks. Has anyone had any problems with this? Because I'm scared my wife may get in an accident because of this because this is her vehicle to go to work. They may work today but you never know when they will go out or start saying the wrong direction and cause an accident. Please Help.
Paint and clear coat peeling and fading on my 2000 Dodge Dakota. I called the Dodge company and they said there were no recalls.
I have had to replace the ball joints on my 1999 Dakota 2 times and the blower motor cost 500 to fix as you have to take the whole dash out to replace it. Mine has a 5.2 or 318, runs great but only gets 14 to 16 mpg. I had no other problems as I bought this truck new.
I bought my 2005 dodge Dakota in the spring of 2010. It only had 43,000 miles on it. Well about 6 months after buying it, I had to replace the front wheel hubs, and new brakes - at the time it had 25,000 miles which I thought was pretty weird. But anyways they lasted until about 60,000 then all hell broke loose! I had to replace both wheel hubs, the muffler and tail pipe, new rotors, all 4 ball joints, and the water pump. That lasted a while 4000 miles then I had to change the wheel hubs again. I've replace the wheel hubs 16 times now, the truck only has 137,xxx miles on it. Now the body is rusting out and my exhaust manifold is broken now! All the Dakota I see driving around has the same problem with the manifolds!! Recall it already! I also had to replace the lower control arm and bushings because, well they decided they were going to FREEZE in the bushings so I couldn't get an alignment done to the truck! I am very dissatisfied with this truck!!
Dealer replaced ball joints on recall on my 01 Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad Cab 4.7 Liter at 65,000 miles. I replaced them again at 100,000 miles, again at 130,000 miles and I need them again at 165,000 miles along with the steering rack. Replaced all window regulators 2 times already and need another window regulator, replaced inner and outer tie rods 3 times. Dodge will not address the many front end problems and I will not ever recommend or buy another dodge. Many complaints by consumers and Dodge still won't address them. I'm pissed!!!!
A few years ago I bought a dodge Dakota sport 4.7 for work purposes. 1 year after I purchased the vehicle the computer died. I've now replaced the computer 3 times in the span of roughly 2 1/2 yrs. The computer lasts about 6 months and then dies again giving no buss error codes. I've also replaced all the sensors that could be possibly linked to that particular problem. I love molar/dodge products however, poor electronics in mopar vehicle seem to be a staple, I don't understand why the problem didn't lead to a recall since the loss of the cup also cuts the ABS system and power steering. "Danger, Will Robinson"
Bought my 2004 3.7 V6 quad cab, used with about 60,000 miles. Inspected it before buying. Everything was great. Owned it for just over 6 years now and everything is rusting. Engine is basically see-thru, bumpers, running boards, transfer case, all the doors, and exhaust. Every time I bring it to the shop my mechanic tells me it's a Chrysler thing. Blue Book value- $3,000, will never buy Chrysler again.
2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7 V8 QUAD Cab - This must be the complaint department for buying dodge trucks. I bought my Dakota new, used synthetic, repaired as needed, and am still driving it after 175k and 14 years. Original engine, tranny, rear-end, and has never broken down. Yes, I've replaced brakes and ball joints, but it's been the best family truck we've owned. I'll never get rid if it, it's been a great vehicle. Here's a tip - don't buy used vehicles, you buy someone else's problems.
Well, my complaint list reads just the same as all the others..... Motor just blew up w/o notice, I mean I parked it for a couple hours, came back, started it and it sounded like there were marbles in the motor.... complete loss. Rebuild 4000.00. Front end rebuilt and it still sways.
Hi. We bought our 2005 Dakota 4x4 v8 new. Still have it and only 65k miles. Never had a dodge before and wanted a smaller truck with v8..... so....at about 20k miles the problems started...tie rod just simply popped off backing up....about 25k miles and 2 years old!! Had the rust starting on the inside of bed by wheel wells! Tried to get it fixed. It was under warranty!!! They took to their body shop...said we can't fix...it will come back...so the dealer got a hold of Chrysler... They said they cannot replace truck bed...so even with warranty they did nothing!!!!
As I do body repair on the side for work...I cut all bad out and put new metal in and bonded it...then put herculiner truck bed liner in with brush....I did this as well to bottom of truck about same time but not around outside of wheel wells...so a year later!!! Yep!! I see a rust bobble on outside wheel well on drivers side! So drilled it out to good metal...bond and tape to trim around wheel well and herculined it! No problems with any of that since! But man! What the heck!! At about 30k miles ball joints had to be replaced as well as the front sway bar links. As a certified Mig, stick,flux core, and metal core welder of 20 years...they made them very bad! They take weld "too small of a weld" around the top part of the sway bar link! It kinda looks like a 2" bolt...that's the part that should be welded all the way around...I did that on one of them...never has broke yet! Unlike the 70$$ one I did buy for the other side! Man oh man!
If you own one of these, I hope you have tools and know how to work on cars/trucks! I saved lots of money by having the tools and Google! I have not had problems with transmission nor any other drive train. But I have always replaced rear axle fluid and limited slip fluid every 15k miles...not cheap either! Has to be synthetic for the rear...spark plugs every 30k miles, also transmission filters and fluid at 60k miles. The batt is still original!!! L.o.l.!!! Like the small v8 seems to be a great motor and this thing is great in the snow!! So just follow the recommended fluid changes and maybe you'll just have the rust and front end replaced every couple years!!
I have an '02 Dakota 2WD and recently, I've been having problems left and right. First, the battery had drained itself and then my radio stopped working and of yesterday, all my dash gauges have quit working. I can hear the fuses and checks going on. Once you have tuned the key one click before starting, it starts just fine after a new battery had been put in. I've heard of a way to reset something to make my dash working but I don't know what it is. Any answers?
I was looking for but could not find any resolution to the "bobble head" front end shaking after I replaced the front struts and ball joints. Now it's two years later and 20,000 miles later and my mechanic says I need the front struts replaced soon. Also I replaced the front wheel bearings and brakes front and rear, a year ago. After reading the blogs on other Dakota complaints I see the front end design has been a chronic complaint. Two weeks after I drove this truck off the lot I wished I had my old 2002 Dakota back. So here we go again. I don't think there is an after market strut that corrects this problem but if anyone knows of one I would appreciate you sharing the info.
I think I'll go with the Rancho (replacement) struts and hope for some ride improvement. I would hate to spend more money on replacement springs if they won't improve the ride and I am leery about buying those after market complete strut with springs assemblies (from China) and not have any ride improvements.
P.S. Yeah and you are right if you guessed I won't buy another Dodge again. I'll get my miles out of this rig and buy a 4wd ridgeline next time.
2006 Dodge Dakota bought with 3900 miles every year must replace whole front end ball joints, control arms, tie rods, brakes and rotors. I put about 10 to 15000 miles a year and buy lifetime warranty parts. Don't understand why have to be replaced every year. Am tired of replacing front end on it. Other than the front end problem and it rusting out, it's a good truck and I like it. Just don't like soaking money into the front end every year - so annoying.
I am writing because we bought a 2002 Dodge Dakota with 60k original miles on it and we thought it was a good investment with low miles. But we are learning low miles on some vehicles is not good. We are having an intermittent problem with the transmission. It is an automatic. When we park and are stopped, when we move the prndl to park, the truck will clunk almost like it has not fully stopped moving, although we have. Also the other day we had a bearing failure. The outer bearing in the sealed bearing hub came apart and sprayed grease on the brake rotor causing a fire on the break rotor. When we pulled the rotor off we could see where the brakes actually locked up and became stuck to the rotor and then began to free spin again.
Everyone is telling us this is because a brake hose went bad and cause the caliper to seize up which in turn caused the rotor to seize for a moment and cause the bearing to break. I have talked to some shops and they are saying this is something common they have seen in Dakota's. We just in parts from our local parts house are putting 500 in parts alone into this because we are doing both sides. I read that if the torque is not proper then this could happen but I see that this is more common for wheel bearings on these to go out. I have 3 questions: 1) Should we get the Ball joint's and steering knuckles checked? 2) Has anyone else had this experience? 3) Is this something that has happened to someone else, all the simulations problems like this?
Purchased my 2010 Dakota Crew Cab Big Horn on 2-14-2014. Since then several times as I come to a stop, the engine revs up attempting to pull me forward. I immediately put the transmission in neutral and turn off the engine. It almost caused me to have a accident once and another time pull me into traffic from a entrance street at a stop sign. Dodge dealer put the truck on their computer and ran tests finding nothing recorded on the truck's computer. Cleaned a very dirty fuel injector area (at a cost to me $305) and said that was the problem. Well, the other day, it DID it again. That's when it almost pulled me into 3 lanes of traffic. Engine revs to 5-6000 RPMs as I put in neutral and turn it off. Taking it back Monday morning for another tech to look at it. Any ideas on what's wrong???? Need help!!!!
2000 Dakota sport 6-cylinder ran fine.... then one day... the charging gauge drops to 0 and a "check gauges" light comes on my dash panel. Lights worked fine as did the A/C... Next day battery is dead. So I jumpstarted it.... Now the charging gauge was working again... After 5 mins it dropped back to 0 again... I noticed even before the battery died that restarting the truck... reset the charging system... Then 2 to 5 mins later 0 again. So I replaced the battery... New battery ran for 15 mins then the gauge problems started all over again... Now I must check the alternator... What if it's not that? What master fuses should I check... I had a similar issue with a LeBaron convertible and it was $1.75 master fuse... ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I was in a wreck about three weeks ago. I was only driving at 35-45 mph. It was raining. The car suddenly slowed quickly in front of me. I hit my brakes which locked and then it felt like I went a little faster into the right lane. Later the adjuster said I must have hit really hard to break the knuckle. Now I am thinking the knuckle broke when I applied the brake so hard which caused me to wreck. I am going to see what I can do about this. I am being held at fault for the wreck. I feel that Dodge should eat all cost due to the knuckle breaking and pulling me into the right lane where I hit another vehicle.
My 2005 Dodge Dakota SLT has had brakes done four times. I have only 73059 miles on it. Now it needs rotor and brakes pads. I've replaced rotors twice, pads four times, caliper twice. Chrysler doesn't want to do anything. The truck looks great but the brakes keep failing. I was told there's nothing I can do but rebuild the front end for almost five hundred dollars or more if it needs extra parts, so much for being made in America or we stand behind our products. It's all about sales. My last Dodge truck. This is the worst Dodge and I've owned plenty of them. My last one was a Dodge hi top conversion van.
My starter went out at 35,790. Seems like they don t last long. Tried to see if there were any recalls. Wonder if anyone else has had this problem. Went to their site. Didn't get anywhere.
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