Dodge CaliberConsumerAffairs Unaccredited Brand
Bought a 2009 Chev Caliber brand new- yeah what was I thinking! Had to replace parts constantly over the years, did maintenance and oil changes faithfully. Just got the final straw to call an end to my suffering. Endless expensive repair bills- a 4,000 repair. Good riddance, goodbye now. Selling as a mechanics special for next to nothing. Never buying a Dodge again!! Not impressed at all!!!
My husband purchased a used 2007 Dodge Caliber. Admittedly, it was an as-is sale. Our gripe is just as much with the shady dealer who most likely knew about many of these issues and failed to disclose them for the sake of the almighty dollar. Forget the fact that we have children that are taken to and from school every day in this vehicle. I simply do not understand how someone can sell a man an unsafe vehicle, then have the nerve to offer to help install the car seat. But, I digress. This car has been nothing but problematic since the 3rd day after driving it off the lot. First, it was sold with a large crack in the reservoir for antifreeze (not a mechanic, not sure of the technical term, sorry) and the dealer sold it with absolutely no antifreeze. He even told my husband "oh, that's normal for this car, my wife's car does that too. It's not overheating, it's just heating up," when the engine showed it was overheating and the check light came on.
You know those cheap RC cars that feel like they're made of plastic? That's what this car feels like when driving it. It creaks at low speeds, and maybe it's a personal preference, but we very much dislike the fact that it is so easy to slip it into manual from automatic, even by barely nudging it. The power windows do not work, and the doors creak and moan so badly when trying to open them you'd think they were ready to fall off. The dashboard is extremely large. You could sleep on it, it's so wide. It really takes away from any leg room, and this car has very little of that to begin with. It feels like driving in a big plastic bubble, but one that could be easily popped. I am embarrassed to admit my husband paid nearly $9000 after financing fees and we're stuck with this car until we can pay it off. Any ideas to reduce our losses and salvage this situation are greatly appreciated.
I bought this car in 2013. Worst car is not enough to start... I bought with 98,000 miles. Got extended warranty... 3 months after the transmission went out... so now it's 2017 on its 5 transmission all under warranty I can't get anywhere. I paid 10,000 for the car and have yet to drive a full year. So last transmission they put in August of 17 and on Christmas I was driving with my kid and it would not move out of middle of road with pedal all the way to floor. So guess what? Back in shop... I just hate it all. I have nothing to drive to get me back and forth to work and have no money considering the place I took my car to said to be covered for transmission. They had to clear codes and charged me 2000 dollars... I should have had them keep it and put it toward a new car.
Well where do I begin… Bought the car (2007 Dodge Caliber) in 2011. Had it paid off 2016. Shortly after that in March 2016 I had to get new oil pan installed, lower ball joint, right outer tie rod and to have oil filled plus 2 hrs labor which totaled 100.00. In April 2016 I had to replace the rear subframe - so it costs me to get a 2nd hand one 300.00 plus pay for the gas to go get it. Then I had to have some put on the subframe for me which then I had to replace 2 link rods and have him cut and remove muffler and pipe off of my car plus labor which totaled 250.00. In September 2016 I then had to get 2 rotors. Replaced brake pads plus labor which totaled 163.00. In October 2016 I had to get upper control arm, outer tie rod plus labor totaling 158.00. April of 2017 The trail link bushings had to be replaced plus labor totaling 202.00.
June of 2017 I had replace 2 rear lower control arms, 1 rear upper control arm, left assessment link (rear) and 1 front link rod in front replaced again. With labor totaled 386.00. Now today Wednesday September 13, 2017 I was leaving work and the front driver's side control arm rusted right through and broke in half making my car lock up and wouldn't move. There was oil pouring everywhere. I'm sorry to say that DODGE CALIBERS are JUNK and I will not be purchasing anything Dodge again. The company should be ashamed of themselves of making this type of car. A VERY DISCOURAGED AND UPSET OWNER.
I have a 09 Dodge Caliber SXT. I'll be driving close to 20 miles or a little more if I'm doing between 67 and 70 miles an hour on the highway. By the time I reach my destination my car will overheat, the light will come on and then there a loud whiny sound especially the more you press on the gas. Eventually the car will not want to go but around 20 miles an hour the more you drive it in the situation. You have to pull over and wait about 20 minutes then it's fine to drive again but also I noticed when you're climbing hills your RPMS are between 2 1/2 to 3 if you keep the car's RPMS at 2 and at the most you won't have as much of a problem and if you drive 60 to 65 miles it's fine as long as the distance is not too terribly long. Otherwise the overheat light comes on.
So with this being said there is absolutely a problem. Not sure what is causing this issue but it has nothing to do with the radiator or fan in the car. It's something about when driving the car at a certain speed along with distance that the car gets in distress that the overheat light comes on and then the whiny yeeeee sound happens then if you keep pushing it then it goes in limp mode like 10 to 20 miles an hour that can cause a serious accident on the highway.
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I purchased a 08 Dodge Caliber in 2012. I loved it. I didn't have electrical windows due to experience with other vehicles and the motor going out in the window of the car... long story short every year I had to replace the alternator, I replaced 3 batteries, also replaced the struts 2 times, the AC has gone out. Not only that my driver side doors won't open and my car has not been wrecked and now the studs on my driver side has fallen off my car and the part is 320$... I'm so tired of replacing parts on my car and Dodge collected the price of 2 cars from me and they still do not want to discount the parts nor do they feel like they should do anything about it... this is the last Dodge car I will be buying.
I hate my Caliber! But found out something interesting. If you are having problems with your transmission, are hearing a loud banging, or it doesn't seem like it's shifting... Look into the alternator. My Caliber was having all these problems. I thought for sure the transmission was shot. Turned out that my transmission was perfect and my alternator was about to freeze up. Replaced it and it's quiet as a mouse. The alternator wasn't putting out enough to control the computer that controls the shifting in the Caliber. Just some food for thought before you take your to a garage and pay over $6000 for something that can be fixed with a couple hundred bucks.
I purchased a 2008 Dodge Caliber 3 years ago. Found out last week after hitting a bird that because of the rust (kbar) it was undrivable and unsafe. The car has less than 87k miles and not even 10 years old. Yet it has to be junked. Fixing the car is far more than it is worth! This is a known issue and DODGE refuses to do anything about it. This is caused from a bad design and protection. It put my family and others' lives at risk not to mention wasting money and resources on something designed to fail fast.
After reading all the reviews I feel really lucky. I have a 2008 Caliber. Yes, I did have some repairs completed over the years. Water pump at 83,000 miles. Two batteries in eight years. Replaced all four struts at 120,000 miles. Replaces all front end parts at 150,000 miles. Right now I have 163,000 miles on my Caliber and it's still ticking. I wasn't happy about the water pump, or the second battery. However all the other repairs were wear and tear issues. Not sure how long my car will keep running but so far so good. I still get 27 mpg. I did get a new car, but still use the old Caliber for work and trips to the store. Hope to get 200,000 miles. But won't put any more money in it.
Got my Caliber in 2007. Had been leased out for a few months and already had 21,000 miles on it. At first, things weren't so bad. Typical type repairs, but after 4 years, it started making a funny sound. Ended up needing a whole new transmission. $3500. Then few months later was making a whiny clicking sound. I had so many people look at it and no one could figure it out. Turned out it was the alternator.
A year later I was driving and at a red light, car dies. I find the belt totally shredded. The condenser went bad making a chain reaction and even destroyed the compressor. Got it fixed, but more problems and I've gone almost 2 years with an AC that works sometimes, but most of the time not. When I turned left, loud scraping sound. Never did figure that out. Over the last few months, changed out a ton of stuff including motor mounts. Condenser and compressor totally stopped working again. Took it last week to Dodge to have them check it out... and I already own $1000 in repairs from 2 months ago. Dodge wanted around $5000 to fix things. They said were very major. I went to Hyundai and bought a new car today and only got $400 for the Caliber... such a waste. The ONLY good part of the Caliber was the sound system.
ANTI-LOCK AND SUSPENSION IS WONDERFUL, ELECTRIC WINDOW PROBLEM. Oftentimes it hesitates upon acceleration when cold; suspension rust problem and intermittent passenger window problem. Great on gas; its best feature is the anti-lock and the ability to be handled in adverse situations. It handles well. Be careful of alternator and rear removable trunk cover. The bar is shabby and hard to replace even through the dealer.
My wife has a 2007 Dodge Caliber with about 80k on it. Purchased it after a lease in 07 right off the dealer lot. We've replaced every part in the front end of this car at least once and some twice. Now we had the car in for general Service on Saturday and the mechanic tells us the engine cradle is rusting out and tells us he's seen several of these cars with the same issue. I search and sure enough I see that they have issued an "extended warranty" for these cars with this issue. I called Dodge and was told that our "mdh sales code" isn't included in the warranty. This is nearly $1,000.00 of work for an issue caused by bad material that they are aware of and they refuse to make it right even though I have the right make, model, year, and the EXACT issue. Last Chrysler product we ever buy.
I bought a 2010 Dodge Caliber SXT in November of 2011 with 38,000 miles. I have replaced the battery, starter, brake pads and bought new tires so far. The other day we decided to take a road trip 4 hours away. 45 minutes into the road trip, the trans oil temp light came on and the car started running weird like it was struggling. We stopped and let it cool down and took it to an oil change place. It was due for an oil change so I got one and they couldn't check the trans oil because it requires a part only the dealer has. We decided to continue our road trip and the car was fine. The car also started making a creaking noise mostly at lower speeds and I'm not sure what is causing it or if it's serious.
The car currently has 106,000 miles on it. Because of bad credit from the time of purchasing the car, I had an 18% interest rate and currently still owe $6400 on the car. I am considering trading the car in at this point because though it has been a good car, after reading some of the reviews of things that have gone wrong it might be time. Unfortunately, the Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep that has been harassing me via mail pleading with me to trade in my Dodge Caliber because they need it for their lot so bad is only offering me $3,000 for it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do but I know it needs some maintenance and I need to have it fully inspected to see if it's worth keeping. Altogether it has been a good car requiring very little repairs.
My driver side headlight went out in October 2015. I changed the bulb twice and checked all wiring and couldn't find anything until I checked the internet and found someone had the same problem. She said they reset her TIPM at dealership for $100. I took my car to my local auto mechanic - Auto Medics in Auburn Hills, MI and I mentioned it to them and they tried it and sure enough, the headlight started working and they only charged me $30!
If your undercarriage is rotting out check with the dealership for a recall because they don't send the recall to you! The awesome manager, Nick, at Auto Medics checked with his friend at the dealership and my car was under recall. I was able to take it in to get it repaired but of course they want you to pay for any other parts that need to be replaced while they remove the rotting carcass. They wanted to charge me $580! for the parts that needed to be replaced (at Christmas time 2015).
They don't charge you labor because it is under recall but they will try to get their money somehow. Well I asked if I could get the parts and reluctantly he said yes. I got everything from Rock Auto for $170, and that is including $20 for shipping! These dealerships should be ashamed of themselves for taking advantage of people like they do!!! Good luck!!! Hope this helps someone!!!
When taking our 2008 Dodge Caliber R/T in for the yearly inspection, we were told that the subframe (what holds the transmission & engine in place) was completely rotted out. This is NOT normal and NOT wear and tear. The mechanic told us he's seen these pieces recalled and ensured us there was no way this was supposed to happen. So we took his advice and called every Dodge dealer in our area (Reedmans, Route 1 Dodge, etc) with no luck.
We were given the Dodge Customer hotline and spoke with a representative there who checked the part with recalls and she said that 2006 & 2007 were indeed recalled but NOT 2008 even though this is the EXACT same problem. This is bad steel - NOT a broken car part due to use. Dodge should be ashamed of themselves for installing bad steel and allowing small families to purchase this! Maybe when someone's engine falls out on the road and causes an accident they will consider extending the recall to the 2008 model.
I called the customer service about my rear hatch being stuck. All I got was "you have to really look for the black tab in order to release the hatch." I pulled everything out of the rear of the car and found nothing at all that looks like a black tab. I then checked the fuses and none are burned out. I then tried to find a repair manual and was told there isn't one. It's only on DIY not printed at all. I'm beginning to wonder if there is one at all? What can I do to fix this? Dodge doesn't seem to have an answer at all. Help me please.
Purchased a 2007 Dodge Caliber with 47,360 miles on it to save on gas expenses. My husband was using a 2000 GMC Jimmy which wasn't so fuel friendly. At first I honestly thought this was a great buy. Much better on gas than the Jimmy. I couldn't be more wrong. Constantly replacing front end parts. No power whatsoever. CVT making noise. Replacing another alternator this weekend (stupid ADP design... this makes #3) apparently sucking in air somewhere. Have "spark knock." This is a new one. Coolant recovery tank leaking. Front wheel bearings are bad. I HATE THIS CAR.
I bought my 2011 Dodge Caliber new, and as of Oct. 2 it has less than 30,000 kilometres on it. So when the wiper blades on the front stopped working, I thought maybe a fuse. Maybe the wiper motor, said the tech at Varsity Chrysler in Calgary - we'll order the part. I've never had this problem with any other car I've owned. But then I got introduced to the wide wonderful world of that TIPN module. Apparently, mine was blown... And a $500 wiper motor part was magically transformed into a $1541.04 bill for module replacement/labor. No warranty, of course...except on the powertrain blah blah.
Best part of this odious experience - the service desk clerk who sympathized with my shell shock about the bill (she apparently has seen this before with low mileage cars and large repair bills). Oh, and when I tried to leave the lot, the orange engine light warning went on in the dashboard array. Another half hour to fix this... Which happened apparently, "just because it sometimes does." So said the tech. I asked for the damaged part back, and was told I'd have to pay a "core fee" of $160 to get it back. No way to prove blown TIPN... How convenient. And the vehicle maintenance package I purchased for oil changes apparently expired in June. Car needs an oil change, but I'm not giving Chrysler any more of my business.
Just bought a 2011 Dodge Caliber in San Antonio Texas, won't mention dealership. 65k miles. CVT, 2.0 four cylinder. The front washer fluid motor does not work. Only the rear washer fluid motor works. This car has only 1 (one) washer motor. When I pull back on the washer lever on the steering wheel for the front windshield the washer does not kick in. But when I activate the rear washer on the same lever it does work. Both wipers work well. Additionally, I have some hesitation and or stalling on low speeds. I will take the car to local dealership Tuesday the 15th of Sept. 2015. I have also noticed a grinding or growling sound coming from front of car when I turn to the left only. I am guessing it's the rack & pinion. In Spanish it's called the "cremellera".
According to the dealership my car has expired its warranty and only the resetting of the "emissions" will be done for the stalling and hesitation. However, the dealership worker said he may run a diagnosis on the car. I don't know what for since these cars have everything in the TIPM.... new word I learned today; TIPM; integrated power module.
This vehicle was purchased new and lady driven since. It had always been serviced at the dealer where I bought it. There were not too many mechanical issues, mostly regular maintenance repairs. A month or so ago, I noticed an oily leak under my car but we could not find where it was coming from. I had to drive 90 miles to get home. By the time I got home, the transmission was making a howling noise and bogging more and more when accelerating. When I stopped and parked, there was oil sprayed along the passenger side of the car. I didn't drive it until I could get it into the Dodge dealer for repair.
I was informed that the transmission needed replacement at a cost of $10,000 plus possible other parts and taxes. I was shocked! My car has only 155,000 kms! I just spent $2000 on maintenance, $900 on new all-weather tires and a new battery in the fall of 2014. I will never buy another Dodge product. This should never happen as cars should not be "disposable". I'm still in shock!
Bought the car used - it is an 08' with like 118,000 miles. Have it 2 years and now at 150,000 miles the transmission is shot and I am without a vehicle. Was quoted $6,000 for a replacement. I owe 5,000 as it is. This has been the WORST vehicle I have bought in my entire life. Feel like I got ripped off.
First new vehicle I've ever owned. I was 47 years old. Should have known better. The POS I got is a 2007 base model. Manual trans, nothing power, only has air. In 2015 this POS has a zero resale value. As a new vehicle on day 5 the dealer had it towed back for fixing as it would idle only. No throttle. Should have been a sign for me. Within a few months all the rear lights stopped working. No fuses! This is a DEALER only repair as you need to be authorized for computer updates. It cost me $80.00 for a diagnostic reset of computer which took longer to drive car in service bay then to reset. Because dodge (and some of the jeeps) didn't want to put fuses in some of the circuits.
Now at 100,000 miles had to replace struts, ball joints, tie rods ends, clutch. Now the tranny itself is bad. This POS never road well, was noisy, has very little torque, less than 30 mpg. Should have gotten a corolla like my wife because it's 10 times the vehicle at the same cost. Dodge caliber has caused me to never ever ever ever buy another new car and definitely never Chrysler or dodge. TOTAL JUNK CRAP.
I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber and my transmission is messed up. It whines and can't go over 50 mph or it goes into limp mode. Going to cost 1000 of dollars to fix. Thanks Dodge. I will never own another. Had too many other problems like suspension, alternator and also numerous other little problems.
This car is by far the worst most expensive car to own. You would think it was super fancy. I have a Caliber 2010. Yes, I did buy the car used but it was in great condition and it was certified. I've had the car since 2012 and have a little over 100k miles and it literally gives me soooo many issues. I just replaced the starter and now 2 months later it's giving me starting problems. It can't be the battery either cause I also had to replace that. I also experience some sort of jerking when I am driving, it's scary! What is there to do?
I purchased my 2008 Caliber with 23,*** miles on it from the dealership in Nov 2013. Car was ok, until after the winter season and the entire front end needed to be replaced including the ball joints - this was all under warranty. About a month after this repair I was pulling into a parking lot and my driver's side tire fell off, hitting all sorts of other parts and causing a lot more damage. This was 45 mins after I was in the dealership telling them there was something wrong with the car as it wasn't driving right, but of course this was Thursday and the first time they could get me in to look at the car was the following Tuesday. So got the front end rebuilt again including ball joints.
Later that summer started hearing this noise that sound like a bed spring constantly squeaking, but only when it was humid out. Brought it in and they couldn't figure it out, because of course it wasn't making that sound and wasn't humid. Went back a few months later and found out that the toe links were all bad and this is what was causing the sound. Went back in May as the ball joints were giving issues AGAIN. Replaced the ball joints, these have a 12,000 mile 12 month warranty. Not even more than 6,000 miles later the Electronic throttle control light is coming on and yes you guessed it the driver's side ball joint is bad AGAIN. Mechanic cleaned out the throttle body and reprogrammed it. Drove it around for another few weeks and here goes the throttle control again, so guessing it needs to be replaced. The car has 78,*** miles on it.
I am done with this car, if I can dump it I will. There is no reason a car needs ball joints every year. No one really has an explanation for me besides it is the design of the car or that Dodge is using faulty parts. I drive 30 mins to and from work and the occasional road trip. But nothing extreme. I feel like I have to baby the car for fear something will break off or wear out driving it. I now wonder if the person who owned this car before me dumped it because they were having issues.
The car has travelled 80,000 kms, now a whining noise coming from the transmission although I'm thinking it will be the noise of a faulty clutch. MY THOUGHTS IS DODGE SHOULD RECALL THEIR CARS, PAY BACK THE MONEY WE ALL SPENT ON THEM, AND RECYCLE THEM INTO SARDINE CANS. THIS IS THE WORST LEMON ANYONE COULD BUY. The only good thing about the car is the stereo but 30,000 is an overpriced stereo. Oh, I got a quote for the transmission from the Dodge Crowd that don't want to know about these cars, $10,000.
So now I think the only way to fix it would be to find a good, strong, concrete lamp post and hit it at 10,000 kms. Absolutely the biggest piece of ** money can buy. COME ON DODGE, TIME FOR YOU TO RECALL ALL YOUR MISTAKES. I'm in business too, how can you continually sell a faulty product and be happy about it? Look at the net, it is littered with all Dodge's car problems. The problem now is for the Dodge car owner has nowhere to sell his or her car apart for the scrap metal man.
Bought my 2007 Caliber fall of 2007 with 20,000 mile. Have done very little to this vehicle. At 150,000 miles fixed the lower control arm, shortly after that the alternator had a malfunction with the brand of alternator and at the cost of the maker of the alternator had it replaced for free another time. Brakes and such replaced for normal wear and tear. My husband services it and I only use Mobil oil. I drive 800-1200 miles every two weeks seeing patients so I need a reliable vehicle. It now has 262,000 miles and the tranny has started malfunctioning, the fuel pump needs replaced, and the wheel bearings finally need fixed. Not sure the tranny is going to be replaced as I think it's time to get another car, but overall it's been great! Have had it for 8 years with little money put into it. Thanks Dodge!
I have the 2007 Dodge Caliber R/T AWD. I bought new. For the past 4 years the headlights go out. The bulbs are good. Dodge says it's not a recall issue. However most mechanics tell me it is. Dodge dealers charge me about 200.00 every time keep the car a couple days causing me to have to rent a vehicle. I find out this is a five minute fix. Also Dodge won't release the program to non Dodge repairmen. And something that happens often! At the very least they should fix it without a wait or a fee!! I will never again buy anything made by this company and because of the way I've been treated my family have all with Honda, Mazda and Hyundai products.
I bought my 08 Caliber in 2013. It wasn't long before we noticed the chords were showing on my front tires. We replaced them a month after buying the vehicle. It wasn't three months later the chords were showing again. This time I took it to a shop which pointed out to me that it was out of alignment and something was wrong with the suspension. So we replaced both shocks, ball joints, and another set of front tires. Still would squeak going over bumps. We've had the car now a month short of two years and it started making a whirling sound when I accelerate. I'm now told that my transmission is going out at 148,000 miles and my suspension is messed up again. I wish I could just get rid of it but still owe $7000. I'm beyond mad! We bought a newer car so we wouldn't have these issues. Never buying a Dodge again!!
Bought a 2012 Caliber in August of last year. No acceleration, poor fuel mileage. Cheap fit and finish. Had 54000 km when I bought it, from Dodge dealership. 30000 km put on it, mostly highway miles. CV joint crunching and vibrating really badly. No visible wear cracks or leaks on any of the axle or suspension. Overall, extremely dissatisfied with this car. First, and last Dodge I will ever buy. Have had 2 Ford focus, looking for a new one, never had problems and enjoyed driving them.
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