Mani… pedi… scarry? Recent research into nail dryers might make you wonder whether regular gel manicures and pedicures are worth the risk.
A study published by Nature Communications reveals findings that nail dryers emit radiation that can harm DNA and lead to cancerous changes in human cells. Ultraviolet A (UVA) light is commonly emitted by UV-nail polish dryers with recent reports suggesting that long-term use may increase the risk for developing skin cancer. UVA is also the same type of light that causes wrinkles, sun spots, and other types of premature aging.
Who knew? Well, as it turns out, some skin doctors did. They argue that these findings are not surprising when it comes to concerns about ultraviolet (UV) light from any source.
In reality, these results confirm why some dermatologists have altered their nail care habits or stopped getting gel manicures completely.
Dr. Julia Curtis, a dermatology assistant professor at the University of Utah, but not part of the study, told CNN, "The findings add to existing data on the harmful effects of UV radiation and demonstrate direct harm to cells and tissues that can result in skin cancer." She compared UV nail lamps to miniature tanning beds for your nails.
“The findings contribute to data already published regarding the harmful effects of (ultraviolet) radiation and show direct cell death and damage to tissue that can lead to skin cancer,” Curtis said.
The UV light used in nail dryers is almost identical to the UV light in natural sunlight, but it can penetrate the skin at a deeper level. Researchers exposed human and mouse cells to this UV light, and even a short 20-minute session resulted in 20% to 30% of cells dying.
However, longer exposure caused up to 70% of cells to die, and the remaining cells suffered damage to their DNA.
Real life or lab life?
It's important to note that the study's main limitation is that it used cells in a lab dish, which isn't the same as studying the effects on living humans or animals, dermatologist Dr. Julie Russak said.
“When we’re doing it (irradiating) inside human hands, there’s definitely a difference,” Russak told CNN. “Most of the UV irradiation is absorbed by the top layer of the skin. When you irradiate cells in the petri dish directly, that’s slightly different. You don’t have any protection from the skin, from corneocytes or the top layers. It’s also very direct UVA irradiation.”
Taking precautions
Nonetheless, the study, along with previous cases of people developing skin cancer linked to UV nail dryers, highlights the importance of being cautious when exposing your hands and fingers to UV light.
To keep your hands safe from UV damage, The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends applying a broad spectrum sunscreen 20 minutes before a gel manicure. Despite this precaution, it does not prevent subungual (under the nail) squamous cell carcinoma, a rare but potentially aggressive form of skin cancer that has been known to show up in cats as “mouth cancer.”
If getting a regular manicure, your safest bet is to let your nails air-dry naturally – totally avoiding the drying lamps – or use an air blower or fan without UV lights.
Dr. Curtis also recommends applying broad-spectrum sunblock around your nails and wearing UV gloves with the fingertips exposed during the nail-curing process. Some salons use LED lights, which emit little to no UV light.